After decades as a refuge for retirees and old Hollywood, Palm Springs is hip again.

The Californian desert oasis has experienced a surge of younger trend-setting travellers – you’ll find them poolside at places like Del Marcos, a boutique hotel reminiscent of the setting of a ’60s fondue party, dressed in vintage finery and nursing tall drinks, looking like extras in a Connery-era Bond movie.

They might come for the cocktail scene and to ogle the mid-century design, but Palm Springs and its beautiful desert surrounds have much more to offer.

Just two hours’ drive from Los Angeles in the Coachella Valley, Palm Springs has drawn visitors for a century with its comfortable winter climate, sprawling luxury spa resorts and golf courses that kept Bob Hope resident for years.

It became a preferred escape for Hollywood celebrities such as Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe, who came to hide away in the most strikingly designed real estate money could buy. Even gangster Al Capone reputedly hung out in the region.

The swimming pool at Del Marcos. Kick back and relax. Photo: Getty

Like a low-key Vegas, it has evolved into a quirky mecca of retro appeal, proving that some charms never die.

Uber-hip music festival Coachella, held in April, is one cultural behemoth credited with channelling the city’s popular revival.

But it’s the resurgence of modernist design that has put Palm Springs front and centre for tourists putting themselves into their own Hollywood-style fantasy.

Beneath the rugged backdrop of the San Jacinto Mountains, boulevards lined with matchstick-thin California palms, manicured cactus gardens and high-end retailers make the aesthetics of Palm Springs immediately special.

A trip down preserved residential streets yields a nourishing display of multimillion-dollar abodes that design buffs could only dream of owning.

While you can simply gawk at architectural icons like the Kaufmann House from the outside, paid tours exist for those searching for an insight into the stories behind these establishments.

The modern revival has also made the city a nucleus of boundless antique furniture and vintage clothing emporiums.

Many of them, such as The Frippery and Iconic Atomic, are conveniently clustered downtown, along North Palm Canyon Drive.

Coachella draws a hip crowd every year. 

Getting lost in the labyrinthine Sunny Dunes Antique Mall also makes for a fun outing of treasure hunting.

One trend that bucks the city’s devotion to the past is its culinary scene, with new venues often popping up.

Chic wine bar Counter Reformation, bustling pizza garden Birba, and playful craft-beer barn Draughtsman, with its backyard games corn-hole and a gigantic Connect Four, are some popular go-tos.

There are still tiki bars, such as Tonga Hut, and golden era lounges that can be trusted to conserve the city’s kitsch veneer.

If a throwback is your thing, King’s Highway serves up all-day breakfast in an an old-school Denny’s diner.

Melvyn’s Restaurant, the glamorous former haunt of the Rat Pack (Sinatra, Davis, Martin, Lawford), is a must-see relic.

Though its primary export is relaxation, Palm Springs is also well positioned for visitors to test their mettle in the great outdoors.

The Dr Seuss-like landscape of Joshua Tree National Park, some 20 kilometres east of the city, has long enthralled hikers with its bristled vegetation and rocky outcrops.

Closer to town, walkers can descend into the world’s largest fan palm oasis in Palm Canyon, or explore the unexpected utopian Indian and Andreas Canyon hiking routes.

Head out of town to soak up the landscape of Joshua Tree National Park. Photo: Supplied

When to go

Palm Springs has its high season during the California winter, with temperatures comfortably hovering around the low 20s (degrees Celsius).

In summer the mercury can sit at an oppressive 40 degrees Celsius, making many outdoor activities difficult.

For design buffs, Modernism Week is held during February.

How to get there

It takes two hours to drive to Palm Springs from Los Angeles, driving east on Highway 10. You will need to hire a car to explore properly.

Where to stay

Built in 1947 off a blueprint by maverick architect William Cody, Del Marcos is an adults-only heritage gem.

Affordable apartment-sized rooms with names like the Oceans 11 Suite, pink lemonade on-tap and a complimentary poolside happy-hour to a soundtrack that would make Austin Powers shout “yeah baby” make it too easy to let the days melt away.

If a party is more your vibe, the low-rise, 179-room Ace Hotel hosts regular gigs and has a resort-sized pool area to mingle with other guests.

The Kaufman House is an architectural highlight. Photo: Supplied

What to do

For a place where lethargy is encouraged, there is a surprising array of activities at hand in Palm Springs.

Tourist guides mapping out architectural porn such as the Kaufmann House, Orbit In and Del Marcos are available from the Tramway Gas Station, itself a structural icon.

For $A45, you can be shown around the House of Tomorrow, the cul-de-sac honeymoon hideaway of Elvis and Priscilla Presley.

Golf has always been a prominent pastime in Palm Springs, with public courses like the Escena Golf Club occupying the lush foreground of stunning mountain backdrops.

Mountain biking and canyon hiking trails abound in the mountains hemming the western side of the city.

To the east are Joshua Tree, and Salvation Mountain: a kooky monument of outdoor art 90 minutes from Palm Springs.

If your idea of being outdoors involves less exertion, the city is well known for its natural-spring resorts, such as Hacienda Hot Springs Inn.

When the desert heat gets too much, escape the elements by shopping for retro wares in vintage outlets and consignment stores.