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Why last week ushered in one of the biggest changes fashion has witnessed in years

Irene Kim wearing a Marc Jacobs top and Chanel boots.

Irene Kim wearing a Marc Jacobs top and Chanel boots. Photo: Getty

The ready-to-wear fashion season for spring-summer 2019 kicked off in New York this week, and by the looks of both the runways, and the street style photos, fashion has undergone the most enormous change.

The old-school fashion system of strict trends and physical elitism has been blown apart. The thing that is in this spring, and for all the seasons to come, is you.

Fashion is embracing the issues of diversity, non-binary gender and body positivity with a passion – a complete about-face from the arbitrary and rarified ideals it has always promoted, such as being thin, young and predominately white.

The runways, and the street scenes look like a cool block party, where everybody can wear what they want, mixing designer, vintage and Kmart pieces, fashion lovers of all shapes, ages and backgrounds.

New York Fashion week spring

Alton Mason proving that anything goes. Photo: Getty

It looks like the creative and inclusive melting pot it should always have been, with individuals dictating what looks cool, not storied fashion houses.

All the old codes are being thrown out, even the way the models walk down the runway. I did smile at an article on vogue.com that was discussing a hip, young casting director, Walter Pearce, and his instructions to the models before the hit the runway.

Whereas back in the day, the vibe would be ‘look fierce’ or ‘confident, sexy, brave’, his inspiration was: “Act like you’re leaving a nightclub and you got in a fight with your boyfriend and you’re way too wasted and by the way, you’re also in Times Square and you’re surrounded by tourists so you’re pissed off and are running home.”

New york fashion week spring 2019

Fashion is embracing the issue of diversity, a complete about-face from the traditional ideals of being thin, young and predominately white. Photo: Getty

He also encouraged models to imagine themselves as a “cult leader looking blankly into the sun”, which is one of the best things I’ve ever heard and, damn, I wish I’d seen that show.

So in the midst of pregnant women modelling Rihanna’s sexy Savage x Fenty lingerie, ball gowns at midday and pantsuits worn with rubber thongs, there is still the lingering issue that the average, slightly self-conscious person won’t really know what to wear at the end of it all.

I see a beautiful young African-American girl wearing some cool outfit and I go “ooooh, gorgeous”. But if I attempted it, we are heading straight for Kath and Kim: Kath shopping at Fountain Gate more specifically.

In the past, fashion editors would come away from the shows with a list of ‘trends’ like plaid, romantic embellishment, fluoro, man-style tailoring.

New York fashion week spring 2019

Models in Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty range. Photo: Getty

You will now find all of these trends in one outfit, so those dictates are now completely irrelevant. I think the best way to approach the new season fashion offerings is just to cherry-pick what you like.

If you love trainers, then buy the most fabulous pair you can afford and wear them with everything. If you love a pretty dress, wear it with a combat jacket and boots. Sweaters and shorts. Jeans and sandals and leather jackets.

It really does not matter how you mix it up, the most important part is that everything you buy should make you happy. And then look blankly into the sun.

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