The fillies and parties are fun, but the Melbourne Cup carnival is defined by its sartorial standards. The fashion stakes are high, the heels are even higher and the bigger the hat, the closer to God.

• How to score a Spring racing outfit for under $100
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In the fevered lead-up to the big race, it can be easy to get swept up in the little details and forget the stuff that really matters: the headwear.

Here’s how to pick a hat or fascinator for your face, style, budget and time limit.

Embrace the trends

Amal Alamuddin Clooney’s cream wide-brimmed hat and Stella McCartney suit was an instant classic. Photo: AAP

Head of millinery at department store Myer Liz Webster says Amal Alamuddin Clooney’s fabulous wide-brimmed hat – that she wore to her official wedding in Venice – is going to be the inspiration for a lot of racegoers this year.

“She single-handedly turned a trend with that hat. Just like Princess Diana used to,” Ms Webster says.

Onto the broader trends for the carnival, Ms Webster says she expects clean structured lines and little cocktail hats to be popular.

As for colour, women should know what works for what race day.

“Everything links back to the day,” she says.

For the Derby, she says it’s all about black and white. Cup Day goers should consider a pop of colour in cobalt or fuschia, while Oaks Day, ladies day, will be a sea of pastels, including soft shades of blue, lilac and soft orange.

Emily Power, fashion and millinery expert, says this season’s fascinators are inching further down the forehead.

“Fascinators this season are taking on a different shape, they’re sitting quite forward on the head,” Ms Power says.

“It’s not about flimsy headbands, it’s about teardrop shapes and clean sculptural looks.”

Playful, less formal options like floral garlands, cat’s ears and feathered mohawks are also a great option for when you want to take a fashion risk.

Consider your hairstyle

When choosing a headpiece, consider how you like to wear your hair.

“If you’re unsure, go for a fascinator as it really suits the hairstyle trends this season – soft and feminine with lots of loose curls,” Ms Power says.

A creative, tonal menswear look at the Caulfield Cup. Photo: SDP Media

Fascinators work well with less formal hair and keep things youthful and fresh.

In contrast, “a hat tends to need a really slick ponytail or bun”, Ms Power says.

Know your face shape

Believe it or not, the right hat can completely alter your appearance.

“Counter your face shape with the shape of the millinery,” Ms Power advises.

This means that if you have a narrow, oval-shaped face, you should stick to styles that add width (like wide-brim hats or headbands).

If you have a round or heart-shaped face, you can pull off styles that perch on your head and add height.

Gents, colour coordinate!

This year, the trilby is the hat du jour for men.

“A slightly wider brim is more flattering than a smaller one,” says Karen Brewster, Myer’s general manager of menswear.

“Look for good quality straw and if the clothing is light-coloured, ensure the hat isn’t overpowering.”

Suits this season are all shades of blue, shoes are tan and pocket squares and ties come in citrus brights.

“Probably 75 per cent of the suits we’re selling are blue,” Ms Brewster says,

To add some extra flair, Ms Brewster advises you to look for pocket squares and ties in melon, yellow or coral colours.

Delta Goodrem looked resplendent in a floral garland at the Melbourne Cup in 2012. Photo: AAP

Hit high street

If you’re on a budget, don’t despair. A lot of the chain stores like Target, Topshop, Lovisa and Equip offer great fascinator styles for an affordable price.

“My tip is to keep it clean,” Ms Power says.

“Budget stores often decorate their pieces with fronds of feathers that cheapen them. Buy them, but rip the feathers off to give it a clean, elegant look.”

Choose fresh flowers

If you want to play it safe but stay on-trend and elegant, the answer is waiting at your local florist.

“A lot of florists will do fresh flowers headpieces that you can order,” Ms Power says.

“They can be as elaborate or as simple as you like. If you’re not sure, just curl your hair and sweep it back at the side with a hair comb featuring fresh flowers.”

Rent it

Milliner Kerry Stanley has created a business called Designer Hat Hire, where you can rent a statement piece from a designer milliner for the day.

This allows you to change your look up across all the days of the carnival without splurging on several different headpieces.

Mimco Blue Moon headband. Photo: Supplied

Do-it-yourself

Spotlight has an entire section dedicated to fabric, feathers, headbands and hot glue guns.

“Veils are so on-trend and easy to make,” Ms Power says.

“You can use some netting and hair clips to make a veiled fascinator for around $5.”

Add some fake flowers to a simple hair clip or band for a simple, affordable update.

Splurge on an investment

While sticking to a budget is economical, sometimes splurging can pay off in the long-run.

“For around $350 you can get a really great bespoke hat you can wear every year and customize and update if needed,” Ms Power says.

If you really want to get your money’s worth, team up with a group of friends and each buy a designer piece, then share them in rotation across the days of the carnival.